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Gobustan National Park

 

Nearly half of the world's mud volcanoes are located in Azerbaijan and included was a day trip to Gobustan National Park, an archaeological reserve, home to mud volcanoes and rock engravings. The mud volcanoes could not be reached by our bus so we transferred to a fleet of Lada taxis driven, close to the safe limit, across a desolate landscape of dirt roads by local drivers demonstrating their skill.  Several of the cars were around 30 years old and the Ladas were similar to the Fiats that I remember from the 1970's - basic but good cars.

The mud volcanoes stand up to four metres high and resemble boils or pustules on the face of the desolate landscape emitting regular burps of natural gas, mostly methane, blowing bubbles or squirts of mud.  These managed to catch almost everyone by surprise so that most/all of us got splattered with grey/black mud.   Disappointingly no one tried to light one.  I imagine that could be quite spectacular - a quick way of getting rid of unwanted hair - like carelessly lighting one of those old-fashioned gas water-heaters - that I'm old enough to remember.

 

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Mud 'volcanoes' belching natural gas - mostly methane
When they burst they splatter the unwary with a spray of mud - no one gets away clean
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Perhaps more interesting, and a lot less dirty, were the ancient petroglyphs on the previous sea shore of the Caspian, dating back between 5,000-40,000 years before present.  These are similar to some we saw in Uzbekistan and others around Australia.  They are difficult to date accurately, as some are quite recent and others are forgeries.  But the most reliably ancient depict animals long since extinct or record human activities no longer practiced, like ancient methods of hunting or fishing.  Gobustan is a well-researched site with over 600,000 ancient rock engravings and paintings that was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. Interestingly one image appears to be of a Viking longboat.

 

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Petroglyphs dating back between 5,000-40,000 years before present
One, obviously more recent image, from the Common Era, appears to be of a Viking longboat
There are more images in the Azerbaijan Album See more...

 

 

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Travel

Denmark

 

 

  

 

 

In the seventies I spent some time travelling around Denmark visiting geographically diverse relatives but in a couple of days there was no time to repeat that, so this was to be a quick trip to two places that I remembered as standing out in 1970's: Copenhagen and Roskilde.

An increasing number of Danes are my progressively distant cousins by virtue of my great aunt marrying a Dane, thus contributing my mother's grandparent's DNA to the extended family in Denmark.  As a result, these Danes are my children's cousins too.

Denmark is a relatively small but wealthy country in which people share a common language and thus similar values, like an enthusiasm for subsidising wind power and shunning nuclear energy, except as an import from Germany, Sweden and France. 

They also like all things cultural and historical and to judge by the museums and cultural activities many take pride in the Danish Vikings who were amongst those who contributed to my aforementioned DNA, way back.  My Danish great uncle liked to listen to Geordies on the buses in Newcastle speaking Tyneside, as he discovered many words in common with Danish thanks to those Danes who had settled in the Tyne valley.

Nevertheless, compared to Australia or the US or even many other European countries, Denmark is remarkably monocultural. A social scientist I listened to last year made the point that the sense of community, that a single language and culture confers, creates a sense of extended family.  This allows the Scandinavian countries to maintain very generous social welfare, supported by some of the highest tax rates in the world, yet to be sufficiently productive and hence consumptive per capita, to maintain among the highest material standards of living in the world. 

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Fiction, Recollections & News

The Royal Wedding

 

 

 


It often surprises our international interlocutors, for example in Romania, Russia or Germany, that Australia is a monarchy.  More surprisingly, that our Monarch is not the privileged descendent of an early Australian squatter or more typically a medieval warlord but Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain and Northern Island - who I suppose could qualify as the latter.

Thus unlike those ex-colonial Americans, British Royal weddings are not just about celebrity.  To Australians, Canadians and New Zealanders, in addition to several smaller Commonwealth countries, they have a bearing our shared Monarchy.

Yet in Australia, except for occasional visits and the endorsement of our choice of viceroys, matters royal are mainly the preoccupation of the readers of women's magazines.

That women's magazines enjoy almost exclusive monopoly of this element of the National culture is rather strange in these days of gender equality.  There's nary a mention in the men's magazines.  Scan them as I might at the barber's or when browsing a newsstand - few protagonists who are not engaged in sport; modifying equipment or buildings; or exposing their breasts; get a look in. 

But a Royal wedding hypes things up, so there is collateral involvement.  Husbands and partners are drawn in.

Read more: The Royal Wedding

Opinions and Philosophy

Sum; estis; sunt

(I am; you are; they are)

 

 

What in the World am I doing here?

'Once in a while, I'm standing here, doing something.  And I think, "What in the world am I doing here?" It's a big surprise'
-   Donald Rumsfeld US Secretary of Defence - May 16, 2001, interview with the New York Times

As far as we know humans are the only species on Earth that asks this question. And we have apparently been asking it for a good part of the last 100,000 years.

Read more: Sum; estis; sunt

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