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The Silk Road

 

Human activities in these mountains might have remained very basic: housed in primitive stone structures; clothed in hides; using stone tools; weaving; and tending herds; were it not for a wealth of mineral resources, including deposits of copper, that became essential to the manufacture of humanity's first industrial; engineering; and weapon making metal: bronze. 

This is among the oldest bronze making regions in the world. Thus, over three millennia before the Common Era (> 3,500 BC), metallurgy and industrial science blossomed here and made the region attractive to a succession of imperial conquerors. 

Later its geographical position, astride one of ancient humanity's most important trade routes added to its strategic importance.  This ancient trade route came to be known to modern historians as the Silk Road, because it connected the Mediterranean and later European civilisations to the silks of China. Trade is of course a two way arrangement. In return China probably acquired bronze technology. 

As my earlier travelogue: 'In the footsteps of Marco Polo' describes there was no actual 'silk road' but a series of cities; towns; and caravanserai, that traders and merchants travelled between, like a 'bucket brigade' using stepping stones across a stream. 

Very seldom did anyone, as did Marco Polo, traverse the entire distance from Beijing or Xi'an to the Mediterranean.  And just like using randomly convenient stepping stones, there were a number of different routes: depending on the prevailing difficulty and/or the experience of the traders.  Preference might also be given to places that added value to the trade with local craftsmanship: weaving, potting or smelting metals.  Among these stops along the way were the centres that are now: Ürümqi in China; Khujand in Tajikistan; and Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva in Uzbekistan. 

Each of these has a chapter in: In the footsteps of Marco Polo. Read more...

Although most silk trade went around, after leaving Khiva or Bukhara, a trader could also travel to one of several small ports on the Caspian Sea and catch a boat.  The remains of ancient trade goods and settlements, long ago lost to climate change, have been found around Aktau on the eastern shore.

Another important silk road stepping stone, until it was destroyed by the Mongols in the 13th century, was the ancient city of Konjikala. It afforded a sometimes safer route to the south of the Caspian that avoided the unpredictable, slave trading, city of Khiva.  Konjikala was later restored, under the Russian Empire, as Ashgabat, to become the capital of Turkmenistan. 

In 1948, eighteen years before the Tashkent earthquake, Ashgabat suffered a similar earthquake and too was rebuilt as a modern Soviet capital. I haven't been to Turkmenistan but Ashgabat's on-line panorama looks familiar - quite like Tashkent. See here... 

The port city of Baku was an almost inevitable next stop, after which the ancient trade route continued overland, across the Caucasus, traversing the Darial Gorge, and/or other passes in Georgia, to the Roman constructed deep water port of Batumi, on the Black Sea.  From there traders could travel directly by ship to Byzantium (Constantinople/Istanbul) then on to Venice; Athens; Rome or perhaps, even, up the Nile. 

 

See album

Stepping stones on the Silk Road
Khiva was not always friendly to passing caravans Read more...

 

The Caucasian route gained added importance in the 6th century as a result of the confrontation between the Byzantine and Persian Empires - when it became difficult and unprofitable to carry silk to Byzantium and the Mediterranean via Persia. An ancient record confirms that least one caravan loaded with silk used this route in 568 CE, after which it appears to have become the preferred route for at least a century.  Archaeological excavations in the North Caucasus confirm that in the late 6th century and the first half of the 7th century the greater part of Chinese silk was delivered to Byzantium through the Caucasus. But this changed after the Arab invasion when a less arduous route, via Persia, again became competitive.

 

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Travel

Berlin

 

 

 

I'm a bit daunted writing about Berlin.  

Somehow I'm happy to put down a couple of paragraphs about many other cities and towns I've visited but there are some that seem too complicated for a quick 'off the cuff' summary.  Sydney of course, my present home town, and past home towns like New York and London.  I know just too much about them for a glib first impression.

Although I've never lived there I've visited Berlin on several occasions for periods of up to a couple of weeks.  I also have family there and have been introduced to their circle of friends.

So I decided that I can't really sum Berlin up, any more that I can sum up London or New York, so instead I should pick some aspects of uniqueness to highlight. 

Read more: Berlin

Fiction, Recollections & News

Are we the same person we once were?

 

 

 

I was initially motivated to write this cautionary note by the controversy surrounding the United States Senate hearing into the appointment of Judge Brett Kavanaugh to the US Supreme Court that was briefly called into question by Dr Christine Blasey Ford's testimony that Kavanaugh sexually assaulted her when they were both in their teens.

Kavanaugh is but one of many men who have come to the attention of the '#MeToo' movement, some of whom are now cooling their heels in jail.

Like the Kavanaugh example, a number of these cases, as reported in the media, seem to rely on someone's memory of events long past.  Yet as I will argue below after a decade or so our memories are anything but reliable.  After that time we should be respecting the accused's legal right to be presumed innocent, unless there is contemporary immutable evidence (diaries photographs and so on) or a number of non-colluding witnesses or others who have suffered a similar assault. 

Now in the news another high profile person has been convicted of historical sexual assault.  Cardinal George Pell has appealed his conviction on several charges relating to historical paedophilia.

There is just one accuser, the alleged victim.  A second alleged victim took his own life some time ago. The case was heard twice and in total 22 of the 24 jurors decided in favour of the alleged victim, despite the best defence money could buy.  Yet, as with the '#MeToo' movement in respect of powerful men, there is currently worldwide revulsion (see my Ireland Travel Notes) at sexual crimes committed within the Roman Catholic Church, such that a Cardinal is likely to be disbelieved, just as at one time a choir boy's accusations against a bishop or a priest would have been, and were, dismissed.

Both trials were held in closed court and the proceedings are secret so we have no knowledge of any supporting evidence. We do know that the two alleged victims were members of the Cathedral Choir and at least one other ex-choir boy also gave evidence. So justice may have been served. 

Yet I'm just a little concerned about the historical nature of the charges.  How reliable is anyone's memory? 

Read more: Are we the same person we once were?

Opinions and Philosophy

Australia and Empire

 

 

 

The recent Australia Day verses Invasion Day dispute made me recall yet again the late, sometimes lamented, British Empire.

Because, after all, the Empire was the genesis of Australia Day.

For a brief history of that institution I can recommend Empire: How Britain Made the Modern World by Scottish historian Niall Campbell Ferguson.

My choice of this book was serendipitous, unless I was subconsciously aware that Australia Day was approaching.  I was cutting through our local bookshop on my way to catch a bus and wanted something to read.  I noticed this thick tomb, a new addition to the $10 Penguin Books (actually $13). 

On the bus I began to read and very soon I was hooked when I discovered references to places I'd been and written of myself.  Several of these 'potted histories' can be found in my various travel writings on this website (follow the links): India and the Raj; Malaya; Burma (Myanmar); Hong Kong; China; Taiwan; Egypt and the Middle East; Israel; and Europe (a number).  

Over the next ten days I made time to read the remainder of the book, finishing it on the morning of Australia Day, January the 26th, with a sense that Ferguson's Empire had been more about the sub-continent than the Empire I remembered.

Read more: Australia and Empire

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