East Asia

We got into Singapore this morning.

The old and the new. There's not much old left in Singapore. 

As Singapore is a regular stopover between Europe and Australia we have been through the airport frequently and on two of those occasions, in November 2018 and in September 2019 we stayed over for a few days.

We were not enamoured of the hotel we stayed in in 2019, that was near the harbour front but inconvenient to public transport.  So, on this occasion we went back to the Sofitel City Centre that, in addition to being very comfortable, sits over a metro station to the airport; a shopping mall and a food hall. 

Now. What to do?  We could take the cable-car to Sentosa again but that would take most of a day and we've done it before, similarly, we could go for a walk around the fake trees at the Gardens by the Bay - a Metro ride away. But no.

On a previous trip

That leaves China Town; the shopping malls and the museums.  China Town is a short walk away. 

The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in China Town - another strange blend of Buddhism and Hindu 
This guy can secure wealth by vanquishing: enemies; thieves; and illnesses

Singapore is now, per capita, one of the wealthiest countries in the world, not much behind Luxembourg (the wealthiest). When we were here, separately, in the 1970's Singapore was relatively low-cost and a cornucopia of shopping bargains. 

There are no such bargains anymore, unless it's an eight thousand dollar watch or a similarly priced handbag.  Sydney is less expensive.  So, after a bit of exploration and some token nick-nacks from China Town we gave up on that idea.

The museums remained. The 'ArtScience Museum' at Marina Bay Sands beaconed. Two birds with one stone? Up-market shopping on the air-conditioned walk from the Metro and an interesting museum. Despite an eye-watering entry price we lined-up, only to be told it was sold out today. 

What about my old favorite? I have photos from three separate visits to the 'National Museum of Singapore'.  This time I persuaded Wendy to come with me.

The National Museum of Singapore Records the country's progress, from prehistoric time to the present
We learn of the British; the Chinese; the infamous Japanese invasion and their defeat; post-war industrialisation; and post-industrial success.  

The Museum acknowledges Singapore's British founders, and it's role as an important outpost of the British Empire. The terrible contrast provided by the Japanese Empire is obviously a factor in the generally favorable attitude towards the British. The return of the British was particularly welcomed after the Japanese defeat. More recent galleries go on to document: industrialisation and social services; the post-war independence movement; the failed merger with Malaysia; and 'going-it-alone'; culminating in pride in the new country's success.

The rickshaw exhibit reminded us separately of how much Singapore had changed since the 1970's, when they were a common sight.

Singapore's post-war success was in part to a massive social housing program, combined with the 'Girl or boy, two is enough' campaign that qualified families for social assistance, bringing rampant poverty under control.

Leaving, on our third day, we remarked that although there are obviously poor people, we were yet to see a homeless person.

Nevertheless, the difference in wealth is palpable. Up in our hotel lounge a couple can enjoy an afternoon (high) tea for just $120 (special deal). It's sold out. For more information watch the movie: 'Crazy Rich Asians'.

Many Singaporeans have servants, at the very least a cleaner, and most cleaners, manual labourers, and so on, are guest-workers. They come from neighbouring Malaysia or Indonesia, some commuting in daily. Others are temporary residents and may come from further afield. I didn't enquire but, by appearance and language, possibly from the sub-continent.  They need to get about and to be clothed and fed.  So, down in the station food court, a very good full-meal costs around $10. Clothes are cheap. And the trains are inexpensive too.

'Crazy Rich Asians' represents, at least some, Singaporeans as 'airheads'. Yet, this year, 2024, the Programe for International Student Assessment (PISA) ranked Singapore's school students first in the world, with top scores in maths, science and reading.

Another factor in Singapore's success was an authoritarian approach to government by Lee Kuan Yew the first Prime Minister, who was often likened to a benevolent dictator, and called anti-democratic, supressing any opposition to his many reforms that included a strict civic code, like jail-time for littering. Singapore was a predominantly Buddhist enclave amidst a predominantly Muslim region and the resulting religious intolerance and interreligious and interracial conflicts were firmly put-down, with the younger generation being taught that tolerance of another's unfamiliar beliefs, or a different ethnicity, is the essence of being Singaporean.

Today, while the immediate neighbours, Malaysia and Indonesia, remain predominantly Muslim, only 30% of Singaporeans still identify as Buddhist; 20% report having no religion and several other religions (including Christianity, Islam and Hindu) make up the balance.

In surveys, only about a third of Singaporeans report that religion 'is very important in their daily lives'. Yet in Indonesia, across the border, 98% report that 'religion is very important in their daily lives' and across the other border, Malaysia is not far behind. 

By comparison, one in six Australians reported that 'religion is very important in their daily lives' (source: Pew Research Center surveys - 2008 to 2017).

Thus, religion is no longer as socially disruptive in Singapore as it once was. Yet, as in Australia, not long after our return, there will always be outbreaks of religiously motivated violence, as long as there are religious fanatics.  I've discussed the origins of religious belief extensively, elsewhere on this website.

According to the Pew Research Centre: 

Singlish

We liked the food court for a light meal. Down there young people (mostly office workers and students) speak Singlish among themselves. It's pretty well unintelligible except for all the 'like' s, 'oh my god' s and 'did she?'s.
You have to listen carefully to realise that it is indeed English. 

At the Museum several groups of uniformed children, from a local school, were gathered around teachers, learning about periods of their history. One teacher was speaking in standard English. Another was speaking in Singlish. I could understand a fraction of what she was saying. Yet, the children were equally engaged. To them, Singlish is just the local accent, no sub-titles required.

English remains the lingua franca. Like Australians, Singaporeans: 'queue for a taxi'; go to the 'second storey' and down to the 'ground floor'; 'take away' coffee; and put things in the 'boot' of their car. China Town is the only place that has dual language signage. Elsewhere, including on public transport, it's only in English.

 Singaporeans also drive on our side. Probably as a result, the car population (by brand and model) is generally familiar to us, a bigger market.
But I haven't seen these electric ones before.
The sign over the shop is Korean. My phone tells me it says: "A story about a place that conveys warmth with sound".

To see all of the photos from the trip - click on the image above