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Agrigento

On day three we picked up the famous Jeep (see the separate story) to drive to Agrigento the site of the most significant Greek ruins.  These date back to the fifth century BCE and are perhaps on top of even older constructions. 

 

Temple of Juno
Temple of Juno - around 450 BCE

 

Not for the first time I was struck by the persistence of religious structures.  They are generally the most solidly built and the longest lasting of buildings.  Temples, other places of sacrifice and mausoleums are built to influence or appease his Gods or in a vain attempt to secure a life after death. Thus they are remnants of mankind's attempts to influence the future, in this life or the next.  The most ambitious of these is the Great Pyramid of Giza built during the late stone age.  But the great cathedrals of Europe also comply. 

It's obviously true that the slightest thing we do irrevocably changes the future.  So these builders obviously achieved a world that would not have been without their efforts.  In the world they created, through their influence on our distant ancestors, I'm writing this and you're reading it.  But is this the world that they wanted or imagined?  I somehow doubt it.  The ancients were concerned with more immediate issues, like the success of next year's harvest; or victory over enemies; or to appease the elements; or to confirm power structures and maintain social elites; or to secure a place in their version of eternity after death.

 

Temple of Concordia - 440-430 BCE
Later vandalised when turned into a Christian church but this probably accounted for its high degree of preservation
The bronze angel is a recent addition in 2011

 

That, in the world that their efforts led to, mankind might leave the planet or discover that our planet an insignificant speck amongst trillions of billions of other worlds, or that their imaginary gods play no role in earthquakes or storms or drought or in their day to day lives was not something the temple builders might have hoped for.

All in all, seeing man's early attempts at asserting a place in the universe the Valle dei Templi was a wonderful experience in the literal meaning of the word. 

The day culminated in a very pleasant balmy evening in one of the best B&B's we have ever stayed in.  I even got in a swim. I would recommend Villa del Sole to you if you want to visit the ruins in the Valle dei Templi but be aware that it is only suitable for those who are driving their own car (like the Jeep) as it's a bit difficult to access.

 

 

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Travel

Romania

 

 

In October 2016 we flew from southern England to Romania.

Romania is a big country by European standards and not one to see by public transport if time is limited.  So to travel beyond Bucharest we hired a car and drove northwest to BraČ™ov and on to Sighisiora, before looping southwest to Sibiu (European capital of culture 2007) and southeast through the Transylvanian Alps to Curtea de Arges on our way back to Bucharest. 

Driving in Romania was interesting.  There are some quite good motorways once out of the suburbs of Bucharest, where traffic lights are interminable trams rumble noisily, trolley-busses stop and start and progress can be slow.  In the countryside road surfaces are variable and the roads mostly narrow. This does not slow the locals who seem to ignore speed limits making it necessary to keep up to avoid holding up traffic. 

Read more: Romania

Fiction, Recollections & News

The new James Bond

 

 

It was raining in the mountains on Easter Saturday.

We'd decided to take a couple of days break in the Blue Mountains and do some walking. But on Saturday it poured.  In the morning we walked two kilometres from Katoomba to more up-market and trendy Leura for morning coffee and got very wet.

After a train journey to Mount Victoria and back to dry out and then lunch in the Irish Pub, with a Cider and Guinness, we decided against another soaking and explored the Katoomba antique stores and bookshops instead.  In one I found and bought an unread James Bond book.  But not by the real Ian Fleming. 

Ian Fleming died in 1964 at the young age of fifty-six and I'd read all his so I knew 'Devil May Care' was new.  This one is by Sebastian Faulks, known for his novel Birdsong, 'writing as Ian Fleming' in 2008.

Read more: The new James Bond

Opinions and Philosophy

Science, Magic and Religion

 

(UCLA History 2D Lectures 1 & 2)

 

Professor Courtenay Raia lectures on science and religion as historical phenomena that have evolved over time; starting in pre-history. She goes on to examine the pre-1700 mind-set when science encompassed elements of magic; how Western cosmologies became 'disenchanted'; and how magical traditions have been transformed into modern mysticisms.

The lectures raise a lot of interesting issues.  For example in Lecture 1, dealing with pre-history, it is convincingly argued that 'The Secret', promoted by Oprah, is not a secret at all, but is the natural primitive human belief position: that it is fundamentally an appeal to magic; the primitive 'default' position. 

But magic is suppressed by both religion and science.  So in our modern secular culture traditional magic has itself been transmogrified, magically transformed, into mysticism.

Read more: Science, Magic and Religion

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