Zagreb

It's 400 km from Split to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, about a five-hour drive, fortunately all within Croatia - no border posts today.

We were here for a couple of nights and the apartment we had booked had secure parking and was a short walk to the tram or a 40-minute walk into town. The apartment itself, in an old soviet style complex, was very nice - quite pristine with very large bed-sitting area; a modern bathroom and a kitchenette.

Much of Zagreb away from the centre is now a little seedy. At the apartment block the regular residents were unusually security conscious compared to other places we'd been on this trip.

Like many countries we've visited from the 'Stans' to the Caucuses, for a period Croatia's economy suffered from the disintegration of Yugoslavia, compounded by the collapse of the Soviet Union. Yet recovery is underway and long-term unemployment has more than halved; and is now less than that in France.

Zagreb has a higher city and a lower city - The markets are near the tram station - lower
The administrative buildings are on the higher level

The conurbation of greater Zagreb has a population of just over a million, about a quarter of the entire population of the country. So Zagreb is about the size of Adelaide and the population of entire country of Croatia is smaller than that of Sydney.

Of course, Zagreb is a lot more mature than Adelaide, with remnants dating from the 12th century, and some centuries old architectural gems.  Although it's famously on two levels, requiring some exertion, the old city is small enough to walk to the main sights.

Zagreb

At different times in history there have been attempts to unite the Balkans but in general these have been short lived as different languages, religions and cultures held sway.

There have been numerous attempts to create a larger commonwealth
But on each occasion 'ethnicity' has been its undoing
By 'ethnicity' people often mean a particular genotype.  Yet we accept wide variations of that kind
Much more difficult to overcome is our affinity to a group sharing a common language; religion and experience

Now crossing the region there can be three currencies, and customs regions, in a single day, with border posts; customs officials and security forces to match. I suppose it appears as GDP in the national accounts but it's economic waste on a massive scale, when the cost could be going to something like improved health or education that would make lives better and people happier.

And it's not conducive to happiness to fear or hate one's neighbours.

Imagine people in New South Wales fearing those mendacious Victorians or those manipulative Banana Benders on our borders. At one time, before Australian Federation, that was a real possibility - we still have different rail gauges.

In 1861 war between States became a reality in the Disunited States of America. That taught us a lesson in Australia - it's better to unite than fight.

Yet it was still a real possibility in Quebec in Canada in the 1990s; now in Catalonia in Spain; and, of course, BREXIT.

If one would like to see a better life for all - a common-wealth - and/or would like to see a reduction in international conflict, then regionalism needs to be opposed. Unfortunately, the world now seems to be headed in the opposite direction.

Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary - Zagreb
Where the Blessed Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac lies in a glass coffin awaiting Canonisation

Like Sleeping Beauty or Snow White the Blessed Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac lies in a glass coffin, waiting to be taken up (?) at the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary.

Thirty one years ago, he was beatified by John Paul II and since then regular prayers have been offered to speed his elevation to full Sainthood. More were ardently added for him or to him for intersession, this day, by numerous faithful gathering around the casket.

Wikipedia tells us: "Continuing the canonization process, Cardinal Angelo Amato announced that the congregation 's (the Roman Inquisition's) medical committee for 'the cause of the saints' had identified a new case of miraculous healing following Stepinac's intercession, thus creating the conditions for declaring Stepinac holy."

Not too long now! Come on Francis what are you waiting for?  I wonder if Cardinal Pell can still hope for something similar? Patron saint of...?

Vignette

Leaving Zagreb we passed through the Slovenian border on the expressway, waiting to see a toll booth. Most countries have a toll system where you take a ticket when you pass through the toll booth on the expressway, and when you leave the expressway, you pay at another toll booth for the distance you’ve travelled.

A couple of kms into Slovenia, we were pulled over for what we thought must be breath testing.

No. We were not displaying a ‘vignette’.

A what?

"There are signs everywhere, you must have seen them," the policeman said. He gave us a brochure explaining a vignette. And indeed, there were signs on the approaches depicting different vehicle types and the key-words 'toll' and 'sales' in English.

We'd had no issue with paying the tolls at a booth but stopping to buy one of these stickers in a shop was new to us
A $250 lesson learnt

We really can't complain. How many Australian highway signs are in other languages?  And what the hell is a TAG?

But I do think the car hire company might have told us when they were busily adding the road tax for each country travelled through to our bill.

The system requires that you pull into a service station before or at the border and pre pay a road toll and display the receipt (vignette) on the windscreen. The fine for not doing this is anything from €300-€600.

We were obviously tourists and first offenders so he discounted the fine to €150 (AUD $250). The same system applies Slovakia, Austria and Switzerland.

If you are planning to drive in any of these countries beware!