Nazareth

Nazareth is famous as the hometown of Jesus. It's located about 80 Km North of Tel-Aviv between the port of Haifa and the Sea of Galilee where Jesus is said to have begun his ministry.  

Nearby is the Ramat David Air Force base from which three squadrons of F16s keep the air alive overhead.

It's quite mountainous here in Nazareth and the Bus wound its way up through the hills.  The town itself has some very steep streets and a large part of the old centre is occupied by a traditional souk. Our hotel, in the midst of this, seemed at first sight to be on the 'rustic' side but turns out to be very comfortable with a large airy room and modern en-suite with a view and a pleasant communal sitting area just outside for enjoying a drink or two.

Hotel View - Rustic

Nazareth is the largest Arab town in Israel, at around 60,000.  Here most Arabs are Israeli citizens.  There were Jewish people in the suburbs as we entered the town but we were told that there are no Jews living in the Old Town area - that there's nothing stopping them 'they just don't want to'.  It’s mainly Sunni Muslim but quite a few are Christian and there is a sizeable expatriate Christian community in and around several churches and convents.

Nazareth

Whereas most Israeli Christians are Eastern Orthodox here the two major churches are Roman Catholic.  The Basilica of the Annunciation is a modern ferro-concrete church built over the remains of Byzantine and Crusader churches. It incorporates the cave in which the Virgin Mary is said to have received the news from Gabriel that she would give birth to Jesus (the Annunciation).

The Basilica of the Annunciation

Nearby is a synagogue in which Jesus is said to have preached and a Greek Orthodox church with a rather reluctant man acting as guardian/caretaker.   I was unable to take photos there but we were most welcome in the local mosque.

The Local Mosque in Nazareth

Muslims make up about 20% of Israeli citizens and can and do elect local government in Nazareth. People we spoke to are not happy about the recent war against the people of Gaza and get concerned when military aircraft from the nearby base fly over.   We were told that Arab children from the orphanage here could no longer be taken to the swimming baths where Jewish children go because of fights breaking out between them.

I must say that it is quite pleasant here if a little quiet. We've had some pleasant meals and climbed some steep streets.

It's a tourist town and tourism is the main industry with local businesses very welcoming.

Dried and crystallised local fruit

Many tourists are Christians visiting the place where the archangel Gabriel visited Mary to announce her miraculous impregnation.  But not everyone endorses the cave in the Catholic Basilica as the correct location.  There is also a church on the supposed site of Joseph's workshop and one can visit Mary's Well. I'm afraid that's much the worse for garbage thrown into it, and so on.

Because of the strong Christian presence it is possible to enjoy a beer in public in a street cafe on a Saturday without anyone taking offence and on the whole the Muslims and Christians of various hues: Eastern and Roman and Protestant appear to be mutually respectful and charming.

After giving me an answer in English one elderly Arab man asked why I don't learn Arabic. My only excuse was that there are just too many languages to learn.  He smiled broadly and I suppose I did too.

But there is a definite antigovernment undercurrent here, among both Christians and Muslims. People here are not happy about the recent war with Gaza. In particular because it has decimated tourism. A definite 'them and us' attitude exists between this community and the Jewish majority elsewhere.