Durban dates from 1824, when the settlement was established on the northern shores of the bay near today's Farewell Square. It was named for Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the governor of the Cape Colony at the time. It's a well-appointed city in the British colonial tradition, familiar to Australians (Melbourne or Sydney), or to Indians (Bombay or Calcutta) or to Burmese (Rangoon). It has some very nice old buildings and well laid out public spaces. It's the third-most populous city in South Africa, after Johannesburg and Cape Town.
Downtown Durban quite beautiful - image from Google Street view 2024
Durban featured the first operating steam railway in South Africa when the Natal Railway Company started operating a line between the Point and the city of Durban in 1860.
In the 20th century the city developed an impressive network highways and concrete overpasses and an electrified rail network of commuter and long-distance trains to and from Johannesburg via Pietermaritzburg and Newcastle, and a weekly service to and from Cape Town via Kimberley and Bloemfontein. Metrorail operated a commuter rail service in Durban and the surrounding area. The Metrorail network ran from Durban Station outwards as far as KwaDukuza on the North Coast, Kelso on the South Coast, and Cato Ridge inland.
The population grew by an annual average of 2.34% between 1996 and 2001. The city's demographics indicate that 68% of the population is of working age, and 38% of the people in Durban are under the age of 19 years.
In the years following the end of apartheid, there was a population boom as black Africans were allowed to move into the city. This led to shanty towns forming around the city, which were often demolished. Between 2001 and 2011, the population growth slowed down to 1.08% per year and shanty towns have become less common as the government builds low-income housing.
Like other cities in South Africa, people identify according to racial group. In official statistics racial groups are divided into Black Africans; Indians or Asians; Whites; and Coloureds. Within each, people identify according to language history and tribal affiliation.
Durban is ethnically diverse, with a cultural richness of mixed beliefs and traditions. Zulus form the largest single ethnic group. It also has many people of British and Indian descent. The city has areas (suburbs) in which each of these groups predominate, often defined by electrified security fences.
Modest housing is surrounded by electric fences and barbed wire - image from Google Street view
Early in the 21st century the population of the city of Durban and central suburbs such as Durban North, Durban South and the Berea grew. The proportion of black Africans increased while the proportion of people in all the other racial groups decreased. Indians or Asians and Coloureds decreased significantly while the proportion of whites almost halved.
Compared to other South African cities, Durban has a high murder rate. Between April 2018 and March 2019, the Ethekwini Metropolitan Municipality recorded 1,871 murders, gradually increasing from 1,349 seven years earlier.
Heist or theft is a common crime in the city. Most houses are protected by high walls and wealthier residents are often able to afford greater protection such as electric fencing, private security, or gated communities.
Crime rates vary widely across the city and most inner suburbs have much lower murder rates than in outlying areas. of Ethekwini. the suburbs of: Durban North, Mayville, Westville and Malvern are relatively safe; while some of the most dangerous areas were Kwamashu and Umlazi. Other crime comparisons are less valuable due to significant under-reporting especially in outlying areas.
Durban is one of the main drug trafficking routes for drugs exiting and entering sub-Saharan Africa. The drug trade has increased significantly over the past two decades.
It was not recommended that we walk to town. Excursions from the ship were by bus away from the city or by a shuttle to a shopping mall at Westville, a low crime suburb, albeit with houses surrounded by electric fencing.
The bus passed through the city centre enabling us to admire its buildings, both old and modern but as we passed the main railway station, I was shocked. The rails were rusty and the overhead wiring in ruins plants had taken root between some of the tracks.
Rusty rails, overgrown tracks - no trains here anymore - image from Google Street view 2025
An approach road was now covered in tents and lean-to dwellings. Further out a maintenance team was working on the highway but signage supports were dangling and guard railing had come away from its mountings and no one had repaired it.
Approach ramps no longer - image from Google Street view 2025
On returning to the ship, several other passengers were vociferously distressed at the dilapidations we had just witnessed.
White Night
It's a tradition on Azamara cruises that rather than have a formal evening like, Cunard, for one evening per cruise segment, everyone is expected to dress entirely in white. If you don't have the clothes the bath robe will suffice. Even though we are in South Africa where 'white' has a special meaning it's nothing to do with ethnicity. We knew about this in advance but were unhappy with our choices from home - the bath robe was a distinct possibility. Fortunately, we'd been to the afore mentioned shopping mall. Some inexpensive shorts for me and this very nice jumpsuit for Wendy. I spent the night admiring her. As I always do, I hasten to add.
Local tribespersons provided an energetic floorshow and there was endless food and drinks (as usual). A good night was had by all.
To see more photos of Durban and of White Night click on the image above