Like Mauritius and Reunion, Madagascar has been biologically isolated for millions of years so that much of the fauna and flora are endemic, having evolved independently. All very interesting. Darwin vindicated.
Also, like Mauritius and Reunion, Madagascar, was once, latterly, colonised by the French. But the results here have more in keeping with Haiti than at the other two. It felt to me as if we had arrived in Papua New Guinea. On investigation, this turned out to be an insult to PNG, that has four times the GDP per capita. What on earth has gone wrong here?
According to Wikipedia: "Since Madagascar's independence from France in 1960, the island's political transitions have been marked by numerous popular protests, several disputed elections, an impeachment, two military coups, and an assassination. The country's recurrent political crises have often been prolonged, with detrimental effects on the local economy, international relations, and Malagasy living standards. For example, the eight-month standoff between incumbent Ratsiraka and challenger Ravalomanana following the 2001 presidential elections cost Madagascar millions of dollars in lost tourism and trade revenue as well as damage to infrastructure, such as bombed bridges and buildings damaged by arson. A series of protests led by Andry Rajoelina against Ravalomanana in early 2009 became violent, with more than 170 people killed.
Modern politics in Madagascar are also coloured by the history of the Merina subjugation of coastal communities under their rule in the 19th century. The consequent tension between the highland and coastal populations has periodically flared up into isolated events of violence."
Mention of Haiti caused me to investigate further. Haiti shares the Island of Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic that has five times the GDP per capita of those with a different culture across the border. Again, it can be explained by political upheaval but what drives that? Put simply: culture. The beliefs about one's ancestry, place in the world and the world in general, that children are taught 'at their mothers' knee'.
Many of these harmful beliefs have no verifiable, factual, support. They cripple their adherents by dwelling on historical grievances, lack of agency and inability to distinguish truth from nonsense. Both Haiti and Madagascar have remnants of folk religions now blended with Christianity into a toxic mix of beliefs in spirits, the un-dead, the influence of ancestors and a highly improbable 'life after death'. Politicians exploit these beliefs, in addition to tribal loyalties and traditions, to gain followers and to accumulate power and wealth. Everyone else suffers.
The ship moored at Port d'Ehoala about 10 km from Taolagnaro, Fort Dauphin. The port is quite new, opened on July 8, 2009 to facilitate the export of ilmenite from the nearby Mandena mine. There is a wind farm that provides electricity to the mine and to the mine housing estate that features modern bungalow style housing in contrast to the grass and corrugated iron shacks of the locals. Notwithstanding the employment offered by the mine, unemployment rates are high and many people seem to live off the land or appear to wander about aimlessly.
The arrival of cruise ships brings out the local traders. The main tourist attraction is the Sainte Luce Reserve is a nature reserve in south-east Madagascar and part of one of the last remaining intact coastal rainforests in the country. We had booked an excursion from the ship. There was a line of busses of all shapes and sizes. We hopped on a coach near the back of the queue. Seemed comfortable, until our driver tried to start it. Backfires, black smoke, inadequate battery. No worries! The staff rallied for a push-start - bang - and then the engine started. Just don't stall until we get there and then park facing down a hill.
On board our bus, our guide pointed out features like a cluster of memorial stones, these are like grave stones, except the remains of the dead are elsewhere. He was also keen to point out the local quarry, which employed people building the new harbour. He is looking forward to a career as a guide, based on his mastery of English.
We reached the reserve without further incident to be greeted by locals selling all manner of souvenirs.
According to their website, "the reserve is home to a fascinating variety of plant and animal species and includes enclaves of rare ebony forest and features five species of lemur, including the collared brown lemur (Eulemur collaris) which was first sighted at the reserve and can only be found here." Our guide excitedly pointed one out, lurking in a clump of greenery. I took a photo of the spot but I'm still a little unsure of the sighting.
There are also at least 50 species of reptile, 50 bird species and 200 tree species, the majority of which are endemic. Among the reptiles are the tortoises. We'd been warned not to touch the wildlife and to be careful what else we touched, yet, some among our party found the tortoises irresistible.
Reportedly, here is also a huge diversity of land snails, 98% of which are, endemic to Madagascar. No doubt some of them are tasty too.
The reserve is also one of only four locations in Madagascar to be home to the endangered palm tree Dypsis saintelucei, of which only 300 mature individuals remain. The palm has been felled for materials to construct lobster traps to supply the nearby hotels, and lies in the habitat where ilmenite ore mining is taking place (naughty Rio Tinto).
As these things go, it is very well run and the lemurs were tame and very cooperative, running about in the trees and on the ground among the people. There was also a family hut for us to examine, complete with a small family, for mutual smiling and nodding sessions, given the language barrier. Back at the ranch, there were light refreshments and alternating dance groups from different local tribes demonstrating cultural differences in dress and dance routines (entirely authentic of course).
By this time, I was ready to return to the ship but Wendy wanted to see the authentic town market. She had an adventure - too long to detail here.
