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Nostalgia

Not everyone remembers the DDR as the horrible administration depicted in the West.  Thus when you use a pedestrian crossing in Berlin you still see a little walking man from the Eastern sector, sometimes adjacent to the walking man from the West, as in Potsdamer Platz.  Berliners love Ampelmann and he's on many tourist souvenirs.

 

Berliners love Ampelmann
Berliners love Ampelmann

 

So former Große Frankfurter Straße is still called Karl Marx Allee and Berliners have resisted calls to restore the old name.  There is also a separate Karl-Marx Straße in Berlin and neither is some little back street.  Emily's local U-Bahn station is still decorated with communist-era murals depicting stages in the People's struggle. 

 

Magdalenenstraße U-Bahn station

 

But in town there is a DDR (GDR) Museum that sheds a dim light on the previous East Germany. 

Strangely enough quite a few of the infamies on display, like primitive kitchen appliances and waiting lists for cars and phones, also applied in the West in the 1950's.  Britain still had rationing then and my Grandmother who died in 1982 never owned a refrigerator. 

The impression given of the DDR is of a country caught in a 1950's time warp and some Berliners are nostalgic. 

They still rip off their clothes and go natural, when swimming on hot summers days, as they did in the DDR as a kind of social rebellion:  resisting conformity; or perhaps an expression of pure classlessness.

 

Resistance to conformity or classlessness?  But it still goes on  (photograph in the DDR Museum)

 

Old cars are a never-ending expression of nostalgia.  There is an active Trabant car owners club some of which can still be seen around town, like Morris Minors in Australia and Britain.

 

Trabant
Trabants - they go on and on and on (No sorry! - That's the slogan of those pollution free ones)

 

There was one respect in which the DDR surpassed the West. Their domestic secret service, the Stasi, managed to extend the 1950's intrusions into private lives of the Hoover led FBI to new levels and probably blackmailed politicians too; not to mention mimicking the paranoia of Senator McCarthy and our own ASIO. 

There's a Stasimuseum two blocks away from Emily's place that shows how they were protecting the DDR from the dead hand of capitalism.

 

Exhibits in the STASI Museum:
hidden cameras; Freie Deutsche Jugend (Free German Youth) FDJ,  military and social duty;
Western Imperialism; CIA spying, terror, torture and brainwashing
 

 

They had to be ever vigilant against crimes against the state, predominantly involving paranoid surveillance of anyone suspected of not being a good citizen.  Youth culture was of particular concern.

 

A list of  'Subversive attacks on the State' (by young people)...
'in particular political-ideological diversions of hostile institutions, organisations and other forces:

- doubt about the correctness of our policies party and government
- discussion and approval of hostile arguments etc
- scorn of our policies etc
- reading corrosive or trashy literature etc
- disseminating (etc) negative: jokes, sketches, songs, mottos, chants
- disguising negative groups as a charity etc
- refusing pre-military training eg: shooting practice
- refusing to carry a weapon during military service
- refusal to take on societal tasks for negative, selfish, political reasons
- refusal to join Free German Youth (FDJ) or similar or ostentatiously quitting the FDJ
- taking on western moral outlooks eg: Punk, Rocker, Pop culture, hitchhiking...'

It goes on to list additional crimes:  'modern' haircuts; listening to western music stations; truancy
and absenteeism from work; drunkenness; running riot as football games and other events;
and holding extreme political views.

 

The overwhelming impression is of bureaucratic incompetence as to targets and laughable lengths, in the light of present technology, to get a fuzzy illicit photograph of someone.  A camera in the radio (in the photograph above) is about the least ridiculous.

But it was their doctrinaire pigheadedness and abuse of power that led to Berliners rebelling and overthrowing the whole incompetent crew. At the end of 1989 communist regimes were in trouble across Europe.  In Berlin young people took heart and there was a civil uprising against the Stasi with demonstrators demanding that the Ministry of State Security be disbanded.  Then on November 9th the DDR announced that citizens could visit the West

Crowds of young Germans from both sides promptly climbed onto the Berlin Wall and embraced each other. Over Christmas the first breaches in the Wall were made by enthusiastic citizens using hand tools.  

 

Sacking the Stasi Offices
Sacking the Stasi Offices

 

Once the Wall was breached German reunification was only months away, on October 3rd 1990.

The Wall was not removed to the present extent until 1992 and some sections remain as a reminder.

 

West of the Wall
West (or East - I'm not sure) of the Wall

 

In this the Berlin experience is totally unique.  Other cities were bombed close to destruction but no others were then occupied by polarised former allies in quite the same way.  No other city has been so symbolic, in the struggle between market economics and institutionalised communism for a world view, as Berlin. 

 

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Travel

Southern France

Touring in the South of France

September 2014

 

Lyon

Off the plane we are welcomed by a warm Autumn day in the south of France.  Fragrant and green.

Lyon is the first step on our short stay in Southern France, touring in leisurely hops by car, down the Rhône valley from Lyon to Avignon and then to Aix and Nice with various stops along the way.

Months earlier I’d booked a car from Lyon Airport to be dropped off at Nice Airport.  I’d tried booking town centre to town centre but there was nothing available.

This meant I got to drive an unfamiliar car, with no gearstick or ignition switch and various other novel idiosyncrasies, ‘straight off the plane’.  But I managed to work it out and we got to see the countryside between the airport and the city and quite a bit of the outer suburbs at our own pace.  Fortunately we had ‘Madam Butterfly’ with us (more of her later) else we could never have reached our hotel through the maze of one way streets.

Read more: Southern France

Fiction, Recollections & News

The Soul of the Matter

 

 

 

 

It was hot, dry and dusty when they finally arrived in Jaisalmer.  But then, how often is it not hot and dusty here? 

In the markets a wizened woman, of indeterminate age, is using a straw broom to aggressively sweep the area in front of her shop. The dust will soon be kicked-back by passers-by; or swept back by her neighbours; requiring her to sweep again, and again.  She will do the same again tomorrow; and the day after; and the day after that.

Jennifer's mind is elsewhere. She's has dreamt of visiting exotic India ever since a client at the hairdressers told her, with enthralling details, of her adventures here.

They've arrived in the dusty city late in the afternoon, by road from Jodhpur.  In spite of his preference to visit California or Las Vegas again, she's finally persuaded Bruce that he might like India. He should try something a bit more adventurous for a change.

Below the entrance to the famous Jaisalmer Fort, is a small square that marks the start of the road winding up, then turning at right-angles, through the protective elephant-proof gates.  In this little square, motorised trishaws: Tuk-tuks, jostle restlessly like milling cattle.  They are waiting for tourists, like our travellers, who may hire them tomorrow to see the town or, if they are lazy or tired, just to mount the steep hill up to the Fort. 

Read more: The Soul of the Matter

Opinions and Philosophy

More Julian Assange

 

 

A friend forwarded me an article by Elizabeth Farrelly in the Sydney Morning Herald on April 12.  Read Here or click on the picture.



It appears that Assange's theories about petite and grand conspiracies are well founded; and illustrated by his own case.

Read more: More Julian Assange

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